The Dyfi Hills, in the south of the Snowdonia National Park, are often overlooked by visitors to the area, who flock instead to the nearby and more impressive Cadair Idris. But the Dyfi Hills, with three tops over 600 metres, offer lovely, quiet walking, with splendid grassy ridges overlooking some superb glacial cwms. This route visits the western-most top, Waun-oer. We set off on fairly level paths and tracks heading south before undertaking the steep climb on to the ridge of Mynydd Ceiswyn from where there are superb views over to the ridges of Cadair Idris. An easy stroll along the ridge brings us to the trig point on the 670 metre top of Waun-oer. We have to drop down steeply some 100 metres before climbing up again to continue along the ridge towards old quarry workings. Here a faint track winds down the hillside towards forestry, where we join a permissive path through farmland for our return to the start.