The Dyfi Hills in the south of the Snowdonia National Park are often overlooked by visitors to the area, who flock instead to the nearby and more impressive Cadair Idris. But the Dyfi Hills, with three tops over 600 metres, offer lovely, quiet walking, with splendid grassy ridges overlooking some superb, secluded cwms. One such is Cwm Ratgoed (an anglicised version of Yr Allt Goed) which cuts deep into the hills from the south. Today’s walk ascends from Cwm Ratgoed to circle around the head of the valley, visiting Craig Portas and Waun Oer which, at 670 metres, is the high point of the route. There are spectacular views throughout, especially of Cadair Idris on the return stretch. Eventually, though, we have to leave the ridge to take an easy path down through the forest and back into Cwm Ratgoed. Although much the walk is moderate going, be prepared for a couple of steep and rough ascents!